Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal peptide; the tripeptide segment itself being the core responsible for its biological activity. Attached to this is the palmitoyl group, which enhances the inherent lipophilicity of the ingredient. This lipophilicity aids in better penetration through the skin’s stratum corneum, direct interaction with various cell membranes and more specific targeting of dermal fibroblasts. Within the cosmetics industry, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is commonly referred to by its trade name SYN®-COLL. Various anti-aging skincare products utilize it as a widely recognized, highly effective skin conditioner.

Sequence

Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys-NH₂

CAS Number

623172-55-4

Molecular Formula

C33H65N5O5

Molecular Weight

611.90 g/mol

Research Of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 mimics the action of thrombospondin-1 (TSP-1); a naturally occurring protein found in human platelets. Animal models and cultured human dermal fibroblasts demonstrate TSP-1 improving wound healing (local action being the primary method) – postnatal skin structure development is also attributed to this protein. TSP-1 itself is an extracellular matrix protein, positively regulating transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β). The specific Lys-Arg-Phe-Lys sequence of TSP-1 is critical for stimulating the aforementioned TGF. Subsequent induction by TGF leads to increased (and sustained) production of both type I and III collagen. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, based on evidence, activates this entire cascade; skin cells are in effect prompted to enhance collagen production.

Animal studies indicate that palmitoyl tripeptide-5 promotes collagen synthesis. In vitro work has shown at least partial prevention of collagen degradation (MMP1/MMP3 being the focus of interference). Promoting synthesis and reducing breakdown are both seen as effective mechanisms of action. Additional data from a well designed study confirms the efficacy of palmitoyl tripeptide-5 in reducing wrinkle appearance, to a measurable degree. Dose dependent and time based wrinkle reduction has been established.

In an efficacy study involving 60 Chinese volunteers (84 days, twice-daily application), Pal-KTTKS showed superior anti-wrinkle efficacy and improvement of various forms of skin roughness when compared to a control group, placebo group, and a cream containing the same active.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 efficiently activates TGF-β by mimicking the body’s more natural signaling pathways; enhanced synthesis of the skin’s own Type I and III collagen follows, with potential inhibition of its degradation. In vitro and multiple clinical studies have all confirmed this significant wrinkle reducing, texture improving, and to a large extent firming effect. Wide ranging anti-wrinkle, firming (partial or complete) and repairing skincare products incorporate this peptide – serums, creams, eye and neck specific products being prime examples.