Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 (brand name Dermican™) is a bioactive peptide extensively used in anti-aging skincare. Stimulating the synthesis of various key extracellular matrix components, it significantly improves skin elasticity and firmness; establishing itself as a near-essential ingredient in modern functional cosmetics.

Sequence

Ac-Gln-Asp-Val-His

CAS Number

928006-50-2

Molecular Formula

C22H33N7O9

Molecular Weight

539.54 g/mol

Research Of Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 is primarily positioned as a ‘dermal remodeler.’ The structural integrity and all associated mechanical properties of the skin depend heavily on the extracellular matrix (ECM); collagen fiber quality and subsequent arrangement being of particular importance. Aging leads to decreased ECM synthesis and increased degradation, a disruption of what was once a well ordered collagen network – visible signs of aging (wrinkles, laxity being prime examples) follow. The development objective of this peptide is systematic improvement and in some cases restoration, of this healthy dermal structure; intervention at the level of key ECM component synthesis being the means to achieve it.

The uniqueness of Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 lies not solely in directly promoting Type I collagen production, but more critically in its action on a near ‘organizer’ of said collagen assembly – lumican. Research has shown significant upregulation of the α1 chain of Type I collagen (COL1A1) and lumican gene expression. Experimental data confirm increased fibroblast secreted levels of both proteins; Type I collagen and to a large extent lumican itself.

A study involving 17 female volunteers (aged 45-55) used a cream containing 0.9% Dermican™ for 16 weeks. Ultrasound and clinical skin palpation evaluations were the measures of improvement; thickness and firmness both showed positive changes. By the 8-week mark at least 82% reported noticeable improvement in all aspects of skin firmness.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 exhibits excellent stability and can be combined with other actives (vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, sunscreens etc.) to enhance photoprotection. Synergistic effects with other peptides are well documented.

Anti-aging is a functional process and Dermican™ is a part of a true and measurable dermal remodeling. Skin firmness and thickness, to all intents and purposes, is a success of this line of active peptides.